Alpine savvy aid climbing If the leader needs gear sent up and they are more than 30 meters up and have a 60 meter tag line, their partner can use the haul rope to extend the tag line, and then can retrieve the tagline back down. Oct 24, 2018 · 1 - The length and diameter can depend on your climbing preferences. May 15, 2024 · If you're big wall / aid climbing, the tie in points are usually better, because that gets your waist a bit closer to the gear you're clipped to. Some wider D shaped lockers may not fit. The AAI blog has lots of solid backcountry tips, check it out. Here are some solid tips for how much to bring, the best type of bottle, little-known material for a keeper cord, the frugal climber’s electrolyte mix, and even how to make a mini fridge in your haul bag. With a girth hitch, the cam hook is ready to use fast when you need it, but is easily removed when you don't. Be sure and bounce test carefully before committing to it. Rebelays can also be useful in some climbing applications, such as big walls, instructional settings, or rescues. Nov 2, 2022 · Pro tip: If you're doing an alpine start, rig your your rope with knots and coils the night before. Despite access to solid weather forecasts, deciding to continue on a climb or bail is often a challenging and subjective decision. When leading, you can get extra reach out of each placement if you try to clip your aider as high on the gear as possible. Generally, it's best practice to have all team members clip to a knot with a locking carabiner, rather than tying the rope through the harness. Oct 21, 2019 · Of course, right here on Alpine Savvy we have a curated collection of more than 70 GPS tracks of the most popular climbing routes in the Pacific Northwest. Check it out Jan 2, 2023 · There are many different approaches to crevasse rescue. Feb 20, 2020 · If you're girth hitching a tether (or adjustable daisy for aid climbing) with a wider nylon sling, either the tie in points or the belay loop should be fine. Apr 21, 2022 · Having simple, repeatable, and easy to check systems for different components of aid climbing is critical. All climbers need proper training and equipment, and to take personal responsibility for their choices. extra buff. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Once you have it set up right: I once came across an anchor that another climbing party had set up with a sewn pocket daisy chain. . With anchor angles typical in climbing (under 90 degrees), the ADT puts about 100% of the load onto each anchor point; the exact amount depends on the angle. It was written by Jason Martin, AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide, and Executive Director of the American Alpine institute, or AAI. Nov 26, 2018 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. general first aid kit. Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Skot sells some key gear to dial in your 2:1 hauling system, such as the perfect length of low stretch Zed cord, and a zero-stretch wire quickdraw. Jan 5, 2019 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Rainier National Park made a clever decision matrix to help remove some emotion from this important choice. Do “aid bouldering” close to the ground, placing all manner of tiny stoppers, marginal hooks and micro cams until you really know how far you can push them before Warning: Climbing is dangerous. downhill gloves. Nov 27, 2018 · The tag line can also be used to haul up any gear as needed when leading the pitch, such as that number 4 Camalot you might need up high. Mar 8, 2024 · A summary of various tricks and tips to aid climb more efficiently, also known as “just about everything I wish I knew when I started aid climbing”. Check out these great diagrams from Petzl on how to do it, and learn some ways to practice before you get on the real stone. Feb 8, 2024 · Note: All climbing techniques, especially one as important as belaying a leader, are best learned under the guidance of a qualified instructor, ideally a credentialed mountain guide. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Put the sewn part on the “bottom” of one half of the sling. Good news: there’s a “stealth” built-in spot to thread a thin keeper cord. Jul 27, 2024 · Here’s a DIY gear hack that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. Founder Kyle Willis designs and sews small batch made-in-USA products for alpine and big wall climbing, much of it from re-purposed fabrics. if you're not using a girth hitch and using a double loop bowline tether, it's okay to tie it through your belay loop with any kind of material. extra wool hat. Forces on rock can be higher, and protection might be farther apart. Jun 14, 2019 · This tip and diagram comes partially from the American Alpine Institute blog. You're a two-day hike in, and if you can get that shoulder back into place, things are going to get better in a hurry. rescue shovel. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. After you know these two clever tips from big wall expert Chris 111K Followers, 612 Following, 973 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Join Premium Membership for extra goodies ⤵️" Sep 9, 2018 · Even if you’re climbing an aid route cleanly, meaning without a hammer, having a “beak” style piton can come in very handy. Mar 9, 2023 · American alpine climbing expert Colin Haley gives a LOT of thought and serious field testing to his alpine clothing system. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. It looks a lot like a bird head, hence some of the clever names: Toucan, Tomahawk, Pecker etc. If you're using a rope style lanyard such as the Petzl Connect Adjust, follow Petzl’s recommendation and girth hitch it to your belay loop. Your setup for leading is definitely in this category. Having a metal point on the anchor prevents the ropes from sawing and damaging it, and makes the ropes easier to pull. ” Let’s break Oct 21, 2022 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. helmet. goggles. Provided it’s unquestionably strong, here’s an elegant way to use these single point anchors. Some people choose to use these, occasionally incorrectly, so let's learn about this gear and some of the drawbacks. thermos for hot water/tea. Feb 17, 2020 · They show it using their nifty Petzl “Evolv Adjust” adjustable tether designed for aid climbing, but any sort of adjustable tether, such as the popular Yates, will work. Feb 17, 2020 · Aid climbing through a roof can be insanely awkward and strenuous . A beak piton (a shortening of the broader term bird beak) is a very thin piton with a V-shaped downward hook at the end. Functionally the same as two lockers, gives a nice smooth lower, and maybe puts the wear and tear on less expensive ovals instead of your more $$ locking carabiners. If you want to gear up for a big wall adventure, Aideer is a fine place to start. With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler. Sep 20, 2018 · A techie climbing term you may come across is an “HMS” carabiner. The bar tacks cause the sling to open up a bit when it's hanging, making it easier to step into. May 24, 2019 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Alpine Threadworks rescue sled & bivy. High Mountain Gear is from Tacoma Washington. Feb 2, 2025 · I once came across an anchor that another climbing party had set up with a sewn pocket daisy chain. Now you can easily transfer your weight on to the gear, which lets you unclip your quickdraw and/or the rope. Your setup for seconding and cleaning is definitely in this category. Jan 18, 2023 · Clip a Tibloc / ascender or something similar to the haul strand, clip in a double length sling (or aid ladder) for a foot loop, step in it, and haul with your bodyweight by stepping down in the sling. Skot sells some key gear to dial in your 2:1 hauling system , such as the perfect length of low stretch Zed cord, and a zero-stretch wire quickdraw. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Oct 26, 2022 · This clever device works much the same as the Petzl Adjust tethers, but costs a lot less, around $12. So, If you want to climb one of these more common routes, that’s a great place to look first. Petzl did some real live-body testing on this; see the article and results here. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. This website offers information and ideas (not advice) intended to reduce your risk when climbing. Mar 8, 2024 · Practice transitioning from aid climbing to free climbing. Aug 25, 2022 · A few words on hauling, from big wall expert Andy Kirkpatrick: “Hauling is potentially one of the most dangerous aspects of big wall climbing. Feb 12, 2019 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. Check out the “snap bowline”, where a slip knot and little bit of rope sorcery Feb 22, 2023 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. The cord I like is a simply 5 or 6 mm cord, about 15 feet / 5 meters. A rebelay is simply adding an additional anchor(s) below the potential abrasion point. These tips may take years off your learning curve. Advocated by IFMGA Guides Marc Chavin and Rob Coppolillo (authors of the excellent book “The Mountain Guide Manual”) this method uses the climbing rope coming off of the leader’s connection to the anchor as the primary anchor point for the follower, as opposed to the second clipping Apr 6, 2022 · Warning: Climbing is dangerous. You'll be repeating the same motion literally hundreds of times on your route, so attention to detail matters! Once you have it set up correctly: Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. If you’re reaching for a rivet head, just slide the top stopper down to expose the wire loop. Nov 26, 2018 · Your climbing partner just took a fall on lead when they were crack climbing, and managed to dislocate their shoulder. Apr 10, 2020 · 1 - Start with a 120 cm sling. In fact, you may find the Yates tether actually works a little better, because it's easy to release under tension, while the Petzl one is not, at least for me. Sep 9, 2018 · Using a designated lower out cord like this can be especially helpful when climbing with folks relatively new to aid climbing, who may not have the more advanced following / cleaning skills. Dec 25, 2018 · Aid climbing is confusing and clustered enough without adding anything unnecessary into the equation, so in climbing where you don’t need the hook, it’s cleaner and tidier NOT to have it always on the business end of your aider. If you have a decent place to stand, you might only need to clip the rope to the draw. Dec 1, 2023 · Aideer Climbing is a one-man show, crafted by Olle Hjort in Stockholm Sweden. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Premium Members get even more. Mar 1, 2023 · from the Tear-Aid website: “TEAR-AID® Repair Patches provide a simple and easy method of patching holes and tears, as well as an excellent protective film solution. wdlkkdo jyxatxad euvezf mlcvdh nlqh thsqn zkft jdde oazq eluhkzk htff zjqgud lixfv ykxp vflhd